Oasis Wines | Newsletter

June 2007

Featured Region: Savoie

The mountainous Savoie region of southeastern France, although mostly known for summer and winter tourism, also offers an impressive array of local foods and wines. Bordered by Italy and Switzerland to the east, the Savoie is an alpine paradise during the summer months, and a sports wonderland in the winter. Yet, despite the harsh climate, views of stunning, snow-capped peaks are matched by charming vistas of vineyards, veiled in fog. Savoie wines are grown in an unusually cold climate, which explains much of their impressive character, refinement and diversity.

Wine production in the Languedoc began with the development of Greek cities in the region during the 8th century B.C., and grew considerably under the Roman Empire. During the turmoiled centuries following the fall of Rome, however, wine production decreased in the Languedoc. The beginning of the 9th century marked a rebirth in winemaking in the region. The Church played an important role in planting and maintaining the growing vineyard lands throughout the southwest of France.

As with many regions in Europe, wine production in the Savoie can be credited to the Roman Empire. Although some native grapes grew in the alpine environments of the Savoie, it was the Romans who brought the knowledge of vine tending and wine production to the region during the 1st century B.C. Throughout the centuries of Roman occupation, the Savoie, then known as Sabaudia, became quite Romanized, as the many archaeological sites in the area will attest. Savoie wines attained enough acclaim throughout the Roman Empire to have been mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his historical writings.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Savoie was occupied by a number of barbarian tribes, which negatively affecting the region's wine production. As the Middle Ages progressed, the region was organized into the Duchy of Savoie, which at times included parts of present-day France, Switzerland and Italy. The very pious house of Savoie ruled the area for five centuries, during which the Church continued to thrive, and vineyard acreage expanded. It was during the Middle Ages that the names of prominent Savoie wine growing areas can first be seen in the Church's records and charters. One notable date for Savoie wines was 1248 when the Mont Granier collapsed onto the Apremont and Abymes villages, covering them in limestone boulders. It is among these boulders that the Jacquère grape is grown, and where it acquires its typical minerality and flintiness.

The progressive abolition of serfdom and the emergence of a middle class during the Renaissance created larger markets and production capacities for Savoie wines. Increased vineyard acreage and improved winemaking techniques led to regional overproduction during the 17th and 18th centuries. Overproduction, inconsistent quality and the ever-present competition from other French and Italian wine-producing areas caused difficult times for Savoie wines.

Although not theoretically part of France until 1860, Savoie was very much under French authority throughout the 18th century. Ignored by the French monarchy, the region of Savoie remained relatively backward. The French revolution, however, brought reorganization, and most of the vineyard lands became national lands to be distributed among the farmers and growers of the region. This led to a large diversity of growing and production methods, as well as a tremendous range of quality.

As the 19th century progressed, and with France's annexation of Savoie, the market for the region's wines grew due to road and railroad expansion, as well as better packaging techniques. The phylloxera crisis of the late 19th century however, had hidden benefits for Savoie wines. To begin with, the cold, high altitude climate was difficult for the destructive fungii to thrive. Additionally, the weather-hardened vines in the French Alps tended to be naturally more resistant to pests and fungii. Nonetheless, by 1877, phylloxera had implanted itself in the region. By 1885, 85% of Savoie's wine producing villages were affected by phylloxera. The result of this, however, was that wine producers were able to determine which grape varietals were most adapted to each type of Savoyard climate. Generally speaking, Savoie's vineyards recovered well from the phylloxera crisis, and increased wine prices during the 1890s created a very favorable market for the region's wines.

With the advent of the 20th century, Savoie wines had become relatively well known throughout France, yet they remained quite inconsistent. With new research techniques available during the early 1900s, wine producers were able to improve their wines' quality and consistency. The Savoie wine producing regions received their appellation statuses as follows: Seyssel (1942), Crépy (1948), Vins de Savoie and Roussette de Savoie (1973). As of today, Savoie wines are extremely diverse, presenting crisp whites to be drunk young, and lively, hearty reds that can be aged up to ten years. Yearly production is approximately 135,000 hectolitres, two-thirds of which are white and one third of which is red (rosés and sparkling wines do not make up a substantial share of the production).

The Savoie's grape varietals are not as well known as they should be. They include a few imported strains that have done well in the region as well as a number of native varities. The major reds are gamay, pinot noir and mondeuse, the genetic parent of syrah. The major whites are chasselas, altesse, roussane, locally known as Bergeron, and jacquère, the staple grape of the Apremont and Abymes crus. Although Savoie has a long list of wineries, among a wide variety of appellations, one producer in specific, Jean Perrier & Fils, sets a very high standard for the entire region.

Featured Savoie Winery:

Jean Perrier & Fils:
Family owned and operated since 1853, Jean Perrier & Fils is one of the leading Savoie producers. Set in the picturesque French Alps, the winery owns a number of single vineyards that provide grapes for some of the finest wines in the region. Thanks to a large domaine and a century and a half of experience, Jean Perrier & Fils offers a wide range of authentic, high-quality Savoyard wines.

Jean Perrier & Fils
Savoie, France
www.vins-perrier.com

Red Wines:
Gamay
Mondeuse Vieilles Vignes
Pinot Noir

White Wines:
Apremont Gastronomie
Chignin Bergeron
Château de Monterminod - Roussette de Savoie

Featured Savoie Wines:

Jean Perrier & Fils - Mondeuse Vieilles Vignes 2004: 94 pts Vinereviews.com (July 2006)

Outstanding wine! Deep purple in color, showing supple fragrances of blackberries, raspberries and spice. Wonderfully balanced, the palate is marked by undertones of jammy black fruits and slight hints of oak. A true delight.

Jean Perrier & Fils - Apremont Gastronomie 2005: 90 pts Vinereviews.com (July 2006)

The Apremont appellation, in the shadow of Mont Granier, features dry, crisp, harmonious wines, and this is no exception. Showing bright, golden yellow in color, this wine is smooth and balanced, with mild hints of citrus and a slight mineral quality. Perfect as a summer wine.

Food & Travel in the Languedoc:

After a day of skiing or hiking, the food and wines of Savoie are a well deserved reward. For many, that is their introduction to the region's fine wines, with a cheese fondue while on ski vacation or with a lunch of baguette and local cheeses and meats while on a summer hike. As with so many wine producing regions, using the foods from Savoie to complement the region's wines makes for a fine match.

Jean Perrier & Fils - Mondeuse Vieilles Vignes:

Try it with Tartiflette, a hearty, traditional Savoie recipe:

1 c. diced pancetta or thick-sliced bacon, cut into lardons (small rectangular pieces)
1 small white onion
2 cups cream
2 lb. russet potatoes, sliced
A nicely ripened Reblochon cheese, crust removed

Preheat oven to 450°. Generously butter a 14" oval gratin dish. Finely slice the onion and lightly sauté with pancetta or bacon. Layer half of the potato slices in the bottom of the gratin dish, then add the lardons and onions. Cut the cheese in rough pieces, and layer half of them on top. Add the remaining potatoes, then top with the remaining half of the Reblochon. Pour cream in gently so that it comes just under the top of the tartiflette. Bake for 1½ to 2 hours. If gratin is browning too quickly, you can lower the temperature or cover it with foil. Serve with a salad.

Jean Perrier & Fils - Apremont Gastronomie:

With Apremont? A cheese fondue, what else?
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/231492

As a contrast to the ancient wine-growing villages, the winter sports resorts in the Savoie are recognized as some of the best in the world. They numerable and vast, some staying open year-round. Val d'Isère, for example, is part of the Espace Killy, a ski area with 100 lifts and 131 trails, with two skiable glaciers open during the summer. The town of Val d'Isère, aside from being part of one of Europe's premier ski areas, is also a beautiful village retaining much of its historical alpine charm.

The le Fornet section of Val d'Isère is particularly attractive, as it is nestled at the end of the valley, made up of ancient stone houses surrounding a 14th century chapel. Indeed, the only truly modern building in this section of the village is the ticket office at the bottom of the ski lift.
Restaurants in Val d'Isère will usually highlight the region's specialties for food and wine. One will find both the tartiflette and fondue dishes previously mentioned in almost all Savoyard restaurants, many of which feature Jean Perrier & Fils wines. Although Val d'Isère's alpine setting is very appropriate for the region's products, no matter what part of the world one is in, Savoie wines are a true delight. Grown in harsh environments with little or no irrigation, these wines are diverse and full of character.

Val d'Isère Tourism Office:
http://www.valdisere.com/gb/contact/ot/otbrochure.php